Body filler is a thick, two-part polyester resin, commonly called Bondo. For tips on mixing and curing body filler, check out our Skill Builder makezine. Caution: Bondo is flammable — keep away from heat, sparks, open flames, and hot surfaces. Wash thoroughly after handling. When it sets enough to hold its shape it will get warm, but not uncomfortably soslowly release your grip and immediately remove excess material with the Surform. After curing, Dremel, file, sand, and finish.
Tip: For a super-smooth finish, apply a very thin layer of glazing and spot putty with your palette knife. Do you have an antique candle holder, bookend, or prized earring, but have lost its twin?
Make a mold of the item using mold-building latex. Follow instructions on its container to build up the mold in layers, including a flange for support and filler containment, reinforcing if necessary with cotton gauze.
When the latex is dry, remove the item and mount the mold in a supporting structure, such as a box. Invert the mold, and fill it with mixed Bondo. The extrusion-art syringe, mentioned below, can help fill small cavities.
Let cure, peel away the mold, and finish as described for the custom tool grip to duplicate the original. Our candle holder was brass colored, so we sprayed the original and the duplicate with brass paint. Tip: Clean and sand or scuff the surface to prepare it for body filler — it will not adhere to smooth, dirty or oily surfaces. Cut a PVC cylinder in half, lengthwise, place a removable wood disc in either end, and cover with wax paper. Put on latex gloves.
Working quickly, mix the Bondo and stuff it into the syringe messy! Attach the cylinder to a slowly-rotating variable-speed drill and extrude Bondo from the modified syringe as it rotates. Thoroughly clean the syringe and tools between batches or they will be virtually unusable.
After a full cure, carefully slide your masterpiece off one end. If you plan to use it as a candle or lamp screen, first spray with heat-resistant paint, then line it with drafting film or similar translucent plastic.
Limit lamp wattage to Tape a printout of one-line art and a sheet of wax paper to a smooth horizontal surface.Released inthe Commodore SX Executive Computer was one of the first portable luggable color computers. On the upside, people say it had a slightly better keyboard than its classic cousin. Most people would probably consider the condition a shame and write it off as a lost cause, since two of the corners were missing most of their plastic.
Plenty of the other vintage computer restorations [Drygol] has done required plastic welding, which uses heat or a lot of friction to smooth over cracks. The use of blank copper clad boards as straight edges and thickness gauges is genius. There even used to be a toy plastic welder. But we say clocks are definitely tools — cool tools that come in countless forms and give meaning to endless days.
At least, the time-telling part of the clock is made from a measuring tape. Tightly packed inside this piece of functional art is an Arduino Nano and a DS precision RTC module, which we think is fitting for a tool-based clock. The Nano fetches the time and drives a stepper motor that just barely fits inside. Not all tools are sharp, and not all clocks are meant to be precise. How does he get such a smooth surface? A few key steps make all the difference. For instance, his phone holder has a round indent on each side.
We love that [Eric] made a custom sanding block by making a negative of the indent with—you guessed it—more Bondo and a piece of PVC. The other key is spraying light coats of both primer and paint in focused, sweeping motions to allow the layers to build up. You must seek and destroy all imperfections.
Just a few weeks ago, our own [Donald Papp] went in-depth on the use of UV resin. We all know it, we all love it, and the guy parked outside of the covered his car in it. What is it? Polyester body filler, better known by the almost generic trademark, Bondo. In the days before OSHA, auto body workers would use a torch, bricks of lead, and a grinder.
You can check out a video of the era before OSHA here. Although Bondo is a bit too thick to cast, he did manage to put a little bit of it in a square mold, a PVC pipe, and applied a little to foam and wood. Until then, you can check out this introduction below, or look at his previous work on free-form sculpting of uncured Bondo. Simple enough for a product designer, except that the client needed it to thread into a specific type of cap.
He mixed up the foul-smelling body filler with the requisite hardener and some lovely cyan toner powder and packed it into the cap with a tongue depressor. Bondo does seem like a good choice for casting threads.
He notes from experience that it works particularly well with Bondo, and even seems to help it cure. Once the Bondo hardened, [Eric] made sure it screwed in and out of the cap and then moved on to CAD modeling and 3D printing bottle prototypes until he was satisfied.
Did you know that you can also use toner powder to tint your epoxy resin? Just remember that it is particulate matter, and take precautions.Oanda desktop login
Luckily for us, there are hackers and makers who not only have the artistic chops to come up with visually appealing designs, but are kind enough to share them with those of us who are a few crayons short of a full box in that department. Since the Echo is readily available and works as a Bluetooth speaker not to mention plays audio from various online sourcesit made sense to use it as the heart of his faux-horn.
The design he came up with is very slick, but the finish work on the printed parts is really what puts this project over the edge. Plus sanding. Lots, and lotsof sanding. But while the finished cane itself might not be terribly exciting, the construction methods demonstrated by [Eric] are well worth the price of admission.Don't want to see this ad? Support the community.
Bondo or XTC-3D on 3D printed Blaster Parts Which one works better???
Stop the ads. Forums New posts Search forums Your purchases Non-stemming search. Media New media New comments Search media. Resources Latest reviews Search resources. RPF Shop. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Your purchases.Building dna gizmo answer key activity b
Thanks for any comments or suggestions, Greatly Appreciated!!! Bogleo Well-Known Member. Image by kenlandrum. I've used this method before, and it works great. Avoid regular bondo unless you need to fill some largish gaps. For print lines, the spot putty is a better choice.
Thank You!!!! I dont 3D print myself. From what I can tell.Friction-weld, rivet, sand, paint — arm yourself with simple tools and techniques to take your 3D prints to the next level. The domain of finishing techniques for 3D printed objects i.
Like builders of dollhouses and model trains, many 3D printer jocks appreciate a loving and accurate rendering of a miniature world. The results are impressive, but why should you tackle these craft skills when you could spend that time printing more plastic objects? Makers who have mastered finishing techniques are granted wizard status by fellow 3D practitioners. Take artist Cosmo Wenman, who creates pieces that accurately mimic distressed metals and stones.
And sculptor Jason Bakutis, whose sanded, painted, and polished faux marble and jade prints look remarkably like the real thing. Through careful work, pieces printed in crazy pink, green, and translucent filaments are made to resemble clay, stone, metal, and wood. How do they do that?
How To: Smooth and Finish Your PLA Prints - Part 2
The desktop 3D printing community has a lot to learn from the sculptors, model railroad builders, and tabletop gamers now joining their ranks. Desktop 3D printing has yet to spawn third-party finishing services like commercial 3D printing did a decade ago. So, without access to acetone cloud chambers, multi-axis enamel jet robots, agitating chemical baths, and industrial tumblers and polishers, makers have rolled up their sleeves and discovered a host of finishing solutions using inexpensive tools and materials.
These methods not only affect a print in post-production, but can often change the way we think about a digital model back in the initial design stages. In turn I hope that those of you refining new methods and sourcing better, safer, and cheaper products and techniques will also share. Post your ideas and thoughts in the comments section. Friction welding involves the use of high-speed rotating tools and should not be attempted without ANSI-approved safety glasses.
Welding and other operations that heat, soften, and melt plastic may release hazardous chemical vapors and should not be attempted without proper ventilation. Sanding and other dust-producing operations should not be attempted without a NIOSH Napproved particulate respirator.
Acetone and other volatile solvents should not be handled without proper ventilation, safety goggles, protective clothing, and latex or nitrile gloves. With the Spin Welder toy, children assembled the frames of helicopters, motorcycles, and other projects by fusing together beams and struts, then used plastic rivets to fasten the outer shell. Unlike adhesives or traditional welding, friction welding fuses metal or thermoplastic objects together by quickly spinning or vibrating one piece against another.
Mechanical friction creates a melt zone shared by both parts, fusing them into one solid piece.
In friction surfacing — a variant of friction welding — a piece rotated at high speeds is moved across an edge or surface under gentle pressure to weld seams, patch gaps, or smooth surfaces. These techniques are common for plastics and aluminum in the automotive and aerospace industries, but the tools are expensive. Sophisticated spin welders can spin parts at hundreds of thousands of RPMs for short bursts of even single-digit rotations, parking the fused part at a precise orientation.
Where are the cheap, hand-tool equivalents? As it turns out, many of us already have the equipment to experiment with friction welding. These tools can also spin-weld 3D-printed rivets. And while it takes them a second or two to spin down again, the melting points are comparatively low, allowing for some manipulation after the fact to reposition the joined part.All three models will be finished to achieve a smooth, matte black surface and each print comes with unique challenges and considerations to arrive at the best finish possible.
There are, however, clear stepping lines between the printed layers. Sanding the ABS print is simple and straightforward. First start with - grit sandpaper to remove stepping lines and then gradually increase up to grit to achieve a smooth finish without sanding lines. Beware that ABS is very easy to sand, so be careful not to overdo it. Removing as little as. After sanding the parts, some holes are revealed on our part left by an incomplete layer around the letters DIM.
These holes can perforate through the finished paint coat to create ugly sinkholes, so we need to find a solution. As you can see in the Catalyst tray to the right, there are large holes between the DIM and the edge of the part. Note that a small amount goes a long way within the 10 minute pot life. Mix thoroughly for one minute and coat your part within the 10 minute pot life.
How To: Bond Your 3D Printed Parts
Before applying the XTC-3D, wash the part with soap and dry with compressed air to ensure your part is thoroughly clean and free of any oils or sanding dust.
Also make sure to wear gloves so as not to get any hand oils or sweat on your part. Allow the XTC-3D sufficient time to become tack-free dry approximately 2 hours. The Dimension prints started with very obvious stepping between layers.
The finished ABS part is matte black and smooth to the touch with very little evidence of layering in most surfaces. A few important results to note here:. Thanks to. Start with grit sandpaper to remove the residue and gradually move to grit; the residue will fall off in small soft white chunks.
This is the hardest part of the VeroBlack finishing process and it took us about 30 to 40 minutes to remove all of the residual layer. After removing the residual layer by wet sanding through grit sandpaper, the surface of the part will begin to feel smooth. Continue sanding through to grit until the part is fully smooth.
Again, we recommend using compressed air to dry the part and clear any accumulated dust. Once you break through the residual layer, the actual VeroBlack will sand very easily. The finished VeroBlack part is matte black and smooth to the touch.
A couple points to note here:. Now for the dreaded PLA, a notoriously difficult material to finish. But with some tricks and patience, it too can join ABS and VeroBlack in the ranks of matte black glory! This particular Replicator print came off the plate with severe striations: see the parallel grooves in the layers of the part above. If you choose to sand the PLA directly, the process is very straightforward.
PLA is not as forgiving as ABS when it comes to sanding and abrasion, so you will likely spend more time removing the stepping between layers, especially with the severe striations in a print like ours.Making 3D Prints Look Like Metal - Products and Processes for Finishing 3D Prints
Begin with a low - grit, sanding away at the bumpy striations and any raft or support material left behind. Once layering and striations are less prevalent, move through higher grits - to achieve a surface ready for priming and painting.The 3D physical map represents one of several map types available.
Get free map for your website. Discover the beauty hidden in the maps. Maphill is more than just a map gallery. Physical map illustrates the natural geographic features of an area, such as the mountains and valleys. Political map illustrates how people have divided up the world into countries and administrative regions. Satellite map shows the land surface as it really looks like. Based on images taken from the Earth's orbit.
Shaded relief map shows topographic features of the surface. Hill-shading simulates the shadows cast by terrain features. Classic beige color scheme of vintage antique maps enhanced by hill-shading.
BONDO highlighted by white color. Dark gray color scheme enhanced by hill-shading. BONDO highlighted in white. Savanna green color scheme enhanced with shaded relief. BONDO is highlighted by yellow color. Light grey color scheme enhanced with shaded relief. The depth of the waters represented by colors and enhanced by relief shading. Maphill is a collection of map images. Click on the Detailed button under the map for a more comprehensive map.Wpf global keyboard hook
Each map style has its advantages.There's no need to live with the layer lines that show up on 3D printed parts. With a little work, you can get your parts looking smooth and glossy. Assembly and finishing are two crucial skills to have when it comes to just about any kind of making. With 3D printed parts, there are lots of options for creating different kinds of finishes.
The image above is from a speculative architecture project of mine. It's an ABS print that's been sanded, bondo'd, and painted with matte spray paint. There are tons of options for finishing! The support structures from Simplify 3D are really good in general.Icloud drive files greyed out
They come off really easily and control the shape of the objects very well. With the bigger parts of the bike fender, I first tried printing them with the big surfaces directly on the build platform. Every time I tried to remove the parts from the bed, the first layer of the part would peel off a little bit because so much surface area was stuck to the bed. I probably could have tweaked the settings in some way to avoid this problem, but I came up with a quicker solution. In Simplify 3D, I moved the part above the bed by a few millimeters so that the whole part was sitting on top of the support structures.
Because the entire weight of the part was resting on the supports, I think the support structures had a tighter bond to the part than usual. In any case, with the combination of my hands, the can opener from my multi-tool, and a putty knife, I got the support structures off of the part pretty quickly.
With all of my parts cleaned up, it's time to glue them together. There are lots of different glues that work with PLA, but I find that E is easy to use and makes an indestructible bond. The bond is also slightly flexible, so there's no danger of a brittle bond like one you'd get with 2 part epoxy or cynoand it will stick pretty much anything to anything.
I use a syringe to apply the glue into the trough on each part. The syringe keeps the glue from getting everywhere- this stuff is really sticky!
It takes 24 hours to fully cure, so I use painter's tape to keep the parts in place. I don't need to worry about clamps or jigs or any other work holding because I designed the parts with ridges and troughs that keep the parts aligned.
A raw printed part will almost certainly never come out with a completely uniform surface finish. Even with Simplify 3D's superior slicing algorithm, the vertical walls of a part will look different than an overhanging surface, as will a top surface. This is the nature of the technology, and it doesn't seem likely to me that any improvements in software are going to make much of a difference here.
In order to get a uniform surface for finishing, I'm going to sand the part, then use a 2-part epoxy to get a polished finish. With sanding, always start with a coarser grit and work your way up to a finer grit.
With this part, I start with grit, step up to grit, then wet sand with grit.
This gives me a nice, even surface for the epoxy finish. When FDM printed parts are finished, they have small ridges on the surface. This is an unavoidable result of the building process- single layers of filament welded on top of each other.
With epoxy finishing, we can smooth out these ridges while creating a shiny surface and even stronger adhesion between the layers at the same time. I used a product called XTC-3D which is a 2-part epoxy resin to finish the piece. It's got relatively low toxicity, is easy to mix, and has about a 20 minute working time so it's easy to control.
It's fully cured in two hours, which is desirable when you're going to be doing multiple passes of sanding and finishing.
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